Official Surfing Thread

yeah i heard yesterday.  i wish was back home to watch people take some of those 20 footers.

Yea I was watching the US Open and you could see the people just get moved around by the currents.
Yea I was going to go today but I reloaded my operating system but if i don't have to work tomorrow, I am off to the beach.

Thighihigh closeouts in RI this afternoon....

surfed san onofre, trestles and san clemente this weekend...75 degree water was unbelievable!  Trestles had the best waves, more technical surfing/ faster, hollower waves...worth the 30 minute hike down.  I set up the go pro video from the shop, only used it one day but have one decent video.  I'll get it set uploaded maybe tonight.  (on my laptop at home).  pretty cool device, have some ideas to improve as three waves didn't record!!! , but all in all fun toy.

it has single photo, photo every few seconds or video... BUT, what sucks is there is an auto shut off feature to save batteries...and when you turn it back on it goes by default to single photo. (according to the manual you can change all those settings but i think this one was a demo or something cause none of the settings were changing...)... quality is amazing though.

the wedge during last weeks south swell...sick footage

my next surfboard...sick!  saw it at killer dana this weekend  channel island robber

man i cant believe i missed out on watching those people take waves at the wedge. freaking crazy.

I'm heading out to Linda Mar for my surfing lessons this weekend!  woot!

got my first ever gopro video clip up...

so, I'm guessing you were laying down while you rode that wave?

hahaha

the puck looks good. 

One of the things I've noticed on the rounder nose fishes is that if the waves happen to get juicy, shapely/barreling and close to head high, the nose will dig into the face.  This makes me fall most times because, unlike a pointy nose, you have to get into the habit of squatting and shifting your weight back some...which I never remember to do.

the fish I had before the piranha was pointier nosed - fastest small wave board I've ever had (too bad it was poly and pretty much toast within 2 years).  It looked a lot like the puck, except mine had almost no rocker (friend made it for me that way at my request).  The rounder nose fishes, however, paddle much better/easier.  It's a compromise.

My brother's been loving his Pods.
http://www.cisurfboards.com/SB_pod.asp

I do that a lot after I have used most of my energy and my arms are getting sore. Or if it is a nice day and I just like sitting out there. 

Originally posted by shop_39014 one thing I see that I don't like about the "robber" is the swallow tail is sooo pulled in...seems like just aesthetics considering a tail that small is going to basically perform like a pintail even my piranha's tail is really too pulled in for the small wave board it mostly is.  From my experience, a larger split swallow tail turns easier for super fast direction changes in sectiony, small waves (mine also has a little too much tail rocker...but that's another subject).  A smaller swallow tail is going to be more stable for hollower, down the line waves...all things considered, tails that pinny don't really want to turn as much as you have to make them turn (kinda like having less sidecut on a snowboard)

I concur, for the most part. The thing that helps it a little from being like a round pin is the way they pull it in with the channels(or whatever you want to call them). The big beefy tail is GREAT for small mushy conditions, I'm still waiting for a decent swell to test my new fish in some better waves, but Hurricane season is coming

I still haven't surfed since this winter. It makes me sad.

surfing during the winter is freaking cold.  but sometimes those swells are just too good to pass up.

Growing up in FL I surfed about 51 weeks out of the year in boardshorts and a 2mm jacket. Now I live in New England and you have to wear a fullsoot into fecking June. Winter on the Atlantic is when all the swells, other than hurricane swells, come.

I hate wetsoots, but I would kill to be ablle to wear 3/2 in winter. up here its a minnimum of 5/4, with a hood booties and gloves

I like surfing best in a 3/2 wetsuit over board shorts or anything else. I learned how to really surf in a wet suit. So when I go down to So cal in the summer it just feels weird not to wear one. 

Originally posted by Phatman Originally posted by Timmay_650 ]I like surfing best in a 3/2 wetsuit over board shorts or anything else. I learned how to really surf in a wet suit. So when I go down to So cal in the summer it just feels weird not to wear one.  Some people up here are like that and wear their fullsoots year round, but personally I'd rather be a little cold than wear a wetsoot.

+1
Usually, it's bareback or my 5/4. I'll bust out the spring for cool fall days, but prefer not to. Hate booties. Despise gloves and hood, but you have to do what you have to do.

It seems like I always get a rash somewhere when I surf without one. So I like one better. But it is nice to not have to deal with one. If I did it more I would like it better and didn't get a rash.

Lineears
My advice for turning is stay low on the board like your body. A high center of gravity will make it harder to stay on. Don't try and do some huge carve just something small. You have a lot of board to move it won't move like a snowboard. Just put a little pressure on one side and hold it and keep your knees bent. Most people fine turning front side is a lot easier, so you would just roll you weight to the toes. Probable about the same amount of pressure as it would take to get you an edge on a snowboard.   

I tried a longboard (8'0) a few days ago and taught some one how to surf but paddling of that things was so fast it was weird. The first few I didn't really paddle b/c i would of been too far inside. 

That is an art form Turning the board around and make be made to be as nice as a late drop into a barrel. If you get good, when I was longboarding a lot you can get you where you paddle as fast as you can to get an outside wave and right before you hit it you sit on the tail and spin it around fast and one strong paddle and you are on the wave it is sweet when it works.
I know what you mean about awkward. I don't have too much problem on my 8 it is pretty small for a long board and easy to move but when I go down to San Diego I ride my cousin's long boards. They have huge ones the only one I like is for my 14 girl cousin which is a 9'0. The Rest are tanks. I have fallen over so many times on those things. Trying to turn them but they just go straight and my body does the turning.
When you get to a 9'0 you have to learn how to walk them just to ride them well. If you are not one the tail of my cousins board it will not turn.