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Official Surfing Thread

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Timmay_650 View Drop Down
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  Quote Timmay_650 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Official Surfing Thread
    Posted: Jul/25/2009 at 7:59am
Originally posted by hana24

A huge swell is coming in this weekend.  Most places are gonna get 5-8ft and the wedge might get 20ft Shocked


Did you hear it killed someone?

http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/bodysurfer-dies-at-wedge-big-swell-sweeps-lawndale-man-into-rocks_28929/

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  Quote BboyTommy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/27/2009 at 12:57am
yeah i heard yesterday.  i wish was back home to watch people take some of those 20 footers.
dance like no one's watching
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  Quote hana24 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/27/2009 at 11:56am
Originally posted by Timmay_650

]
Originally posted by hana24

A huge swell is coming in this weekend.  Most places are gonna get 5-8ft and the wedge might get 20ft Shocked


Did you hear it killed someone?

http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/bodysurfer-dies-at-wedge-big-swell-sweeps-lawndale-man-into-rocks_28929/



Yeah I've heard about it.  I went and saw the wedge and people trying to ride that thing on Friday.  It's intense and I'm sure people who go there know the dangers of entering the water.  It's still sad though. 

I went out on Saturday and the waves were a lot bigger than I'm normally used too, plus the currents were pretty strong and I drifted like crazy.
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  Quote Timmay_650 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/27/2009 at 12:50pm
Yea I was watching the US Open and you could see the people just get moved around by the currents.
Yea I was going to go today but I reloaded my operating system but if i don't have to work tomorrow, I am off to the beach.
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  Quote BboyTommy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/27/2009 at 5:00pm
dang, its freaking crazy out there.
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  Quote Phatman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/27/2009 at 5:09pm
Thighihigh closeouts in RI this afternoon....
A thermos keeps hot stuff hot, and cold stuff cold.....BUT HOW DOES IT KNOW???
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  Quote Phatman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/03/2009 at 7:41am
Some Mushy waist to chest high waves on Saturday. I can't wait til hurricane season.
A thermos keeps hot stuff hot, and cold stuff cold.....BUT HOW DOES IT KNOW???
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  Quote airik Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/03/2009 at 7:49am
surfed san onofre, trestles and san clemente this weekend...75 degree water was unbelievable!  Trestles had the best waves, more technical surfing/ faster, hollower waves...worth the 30 minute hike down.  I set up the go pro video from the shop, only used it one day but have one decent video.  I'll get it set uploaded maybe tonight.  (on my laptop at home).  pretty cool device, have some ideas to improve as three waves didn't record!!! , but all in all fun toy.
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  Quote Phatman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/03/2009 at 8:09am
How does that thing work? Does it just snap pictures and video at regular intervals?


I'm weird, in 12-13 years of surfing, I don't have a single picture of me doing itLOL


Besides I don't actually think my surfing is good enough to actually show it to anybody that didn't have to live through it.
A thermos keeps hot stuff hot, and cold stuff cold.....BUT HOW DOES IT KNOW???
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  Quote airik Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/03/2009 at 8:24am
it has single photo, photo every few seconds or video... BUT, what sucks is there is an auto shut off feature to save batteries...and when you turn it back on it goes by default to single photo. (according to the manual you can change all those settings but i think this one was a demo or something cause none of the settings were changing...)... quality is amazing though.
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  Quote Phatman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/03/2009 at 9:07am
I have the waterproof Olympus. I've thought about paddling out with it before but I figured I'd either drop it or it would just get in the way and be annoying
A thermos keeps hot stuff hot, and cold stuff cold.....BUT HOW DOES IT KNOW???
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  Quote airik Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/03/2009 at 10:16am
the wedge during last weeks south swell...sick footage



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  Quote Timmay_650 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/03/2009 at 12:44pm
Originally posted by Phatman

I have the waterproof Olympus. I've thought about paddling out with it before but I figured I'd either drop it or it would just get in the way and be annoying


You need to get a friend to get one too then you just take picture of each other surfing. I was watching kids do it and it worked pretty well from what I saw and they said. But one of the almost lost his a few days before b/c he was surfing mavericks and the wrist cord broke. That wasn't a shock to me.
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  Quote airik Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/03/2009 at 4:13pm
my next surfboard...sick!  saw it at killer dana this weekend  channel island robber
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  Quote adeodadus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/03/2009 at 10:02pm
6'1" Egan
6'2"Keoki Fish
6'4"Keoki swallow tail
6'8"/7'0"/8'5" (harldy ride)

Best South Swells so far in a couple years at least Big smile  Wished I could go to a this planned surf trip to Nicaragua : can't get off work and can't spare the $$$ :: so anyone who has been there... represent Star
Fear is the Mind Killer
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  Quote BboyTommy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/04/2009 at 6:12am

man i cant believe i missed out on watching those people take waves at the wedge. freaking crazy.

dance like no one's watching
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  Quote VermontRider Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/04/2009 at 6:42am
Got out Sat. morning and evening, Sunday evening and Monday morning in NJ. Got a couple of fun waves, but the sandbars are killer this year. The bottom just sucks out beneath you. I'm still getting sand out of various parts of me.
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  Quote Dirtydragon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/04/2009 at 6:56am
I'm heading out to Linda Mar for my surfing lessons this weekend!  woot!
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  Quote Timmay_650 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/04/2009 at 8:01am
^^^ best luck with that. Hopefully there will be something out there this weekend. I might had out there today. Haven't decide yet.
p.s to me the water is always cold when you get in there.
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  Quote airik Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/04/2009 at 12:59pm
got my first ever gopro video clip up...
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  Quote hana24 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/04/2009 at 1:06pm
Originally posted by airik

got my first ever gopro video clip up...


I don't see the nuclear power plant...
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  Quote Piranha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/04/2009 at 1:56pm
so, I'm guessing you were laying down while you rode that wave?
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  Quote Piranha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/04/2009 at 2:27pm
Originally posted by airik

my next surfboard...sick!  saw it at killer dana this weekend  channel island robber
yeah, that board should go good.  Seems a bit expensive though, considering it's has basically the same dimensions as a lot of other fishy swallowtail "grovelers" available:

* Proctor "module"
* M10 "hogfish"
* Lost "round nose Fish"
* HIC "wombat"
* T.Patterson "speed fish"
* Kechele "stub fish"
* etc., etc.

...plus, CI is so popular, that model is usually out of stock.

my Rusty piranha has similar dims and paddles crazy good.  It's fun in smallish, fatter higher tide waves (waist to head high), but, contrary to popular belief, these type boards don't do well in knee high waves unless really punchy...although, I've been known to still mess around with mine in crap knee high just because I don't like logboards.


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  Quote BboyTommy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/04/2009 at 4:51pm
hahaha
dance like no one's watching
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  Quote Timmay_650 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/04/2009 at 9:10pm
Originally posted by airik

my next surfboard...sick!  saw it at killer dana this weekend  channel island robber


I have a M10 puck it is a little different shape but they same idea. It is such a fun board to surf. I loved it the first wave I caught on it and it was a really crappy wave. It got even better when i found good waves for it.

I finally learned how to ride my new board (Pel Mel Surftech). Well I just know it can only ride some waves but i really enjoy it now.
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  Quote Piranha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/05/2009 at 9:11am
the puck looks good. 

One of the things I've noticed on the rounder nose fishes is that if the waves happen to get juicy, shapely/barreling and close to head high, the nose will dig into the face.  This makes me fall most times because, unlike a pointy nose, you have to get into the habit of squatting and shifting your weight back some...which I never remember to do.

the fish I had before the piranha was pointier nosed - fastest small wave board I've ever had (too bad it was poly and pretty much toast within 2 years).  It looked a lot like the puck, except mine had almost no rocker (friend made it for me that way at my request).  The rounder nose fishes, however, paddle much better/easier.  It's a compromise.
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  Quote Timmay_650 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/05/2009 at 10:06am
The puck I don't have that problem with but my Pel Mel I get that a lot. So I just try and avoid the Mel in waves like that. 
If I could only have one board I would choose the puck. It has been my favorite all around board of any I have owned.
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  Quote VermontRider Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/05/2009 at 10:17am
My brother's been loving his Pods.
http://www.cisurfboards.com/SB_pod.asp
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  Quote Piranha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/05/2009 at 6:57pm
Originally posted by Timmay_650

]The puck I don't have that problem with but my Pel Mel I get that a lot. So I just try and avoid the Mel in waves like that. 
...
...well, yeah, but sometimes I paddle out in weak waves and a few rogue good waves come in...so, if no one else is going for it, I just make an effort on them anyway
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  Quote Timmay_650 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/05/2009 at 7:14pm
I do that a lot after I have used most of my energy and my arms are getting sore. Or if it is a nice day and I just like sitting out there. 
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  Quote Piranha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/06/2009 at 7:15am
one thing I see that I don't like about the "robber" is the swallow tail is sooo pulled in...seems like just aesthetics considering a tail that small is going to basically perform like a pintail

even my piranha's tail is really too pulled in for the small wave board it mostly is.  From my experience, a larger split swallow tail turns easier for super fast direction changes in sectiony, small waves (mine also has a little too much tail rocker...but that's another subject). 

A smaller swallow tail is going to be more stable for hollower, down the line waves...all things considered, tails that pinny don't really want to turn as much as you have to make them turn (kinda like having less sidecut on a snowboard)
 
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  Quote Phatman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/06/2009 at 11:24am
Originally posted by shop_39014

one thing I see that I don't like about the "robber" is the swallow tail is sooo pulled in...seems like just aesthetics considering a tail that small is going to basically perform like a pintail

even my piranha's tail is really too pulled in for the small wave board it mostly is.  From my experience, a larger split swallow tail turns easier for super fast direction changes in sectiony, small waves (mine also has a little too much tail rocker...but that's another subject). 

A smaller swallow tail is going to be more stable for hollower, down the line waves...all things considered, tails that pinny don't really want to turn as much as you have to make them turn (kinda like having less sidecut on a snowboard)
 


I concur, for the most part. The thing that helps it a little from being like a round pin is the way they pull it in with the channels(or whatever you want to call them). The big beefy tail is GREAT for small mushy conditions, I'm still waiting for a decent swell to test my new fish in some better waves, but Hurricane season is comingClap
A thermos keeps hot stuff hot, and cold stuff cold.....BUT HOW DOES IT KNOW???
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  Quote Piranha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/06/2009 at 12:16pm
...well, you don't want the tail too big and beefy...just bigger than the robber and even a little bigger than the piranha for small to mushy onshore waves.  Some of the tails on those old school style fish are redonkulously wide which I'm sure contribute to some really funky turning performance.

Look at the waves machado is riding on the robber video - they aren't your average onshore mush.  Those are kinda clean, down the line waves.  Granted, the first couple of waves aren't barrelling (a little "fat"), and that's where the wider nose and thickness comes in, but decent waves by my spot's standards.

sounds like I'm acting like I know more about board design than al merrick or machado (which I absolutely dont), but you have to agree that, in order to sell a new model, it has to have something that really stands out...in this case, it's definitely the tail.
 
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  Quote courtnayyydear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/06/2009 at 1:36pm
I still haven't surfed since this winter. It makes me sad.
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  Quote lineears Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/06/2009 at 2:04pm
who surfs durng the winter??
ain't the crazy talk?
 
might have a chance to go surfing by the end of august
woot!
Go Canucks!
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  Quote BboyTommy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/06/2009 at 3:09pm
surfing during the winter is freaking cold.  but sometimes those swells are just too good to pass up.
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  Quote Timmay_650 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/06/2009 at 3:16pm
^^ In So Cal? Tell that is a joke. You can get away just fine using a spring suit. I have been surfing in So Cal on Christmas without a wetsuit.
If you want Cold water come to half moon bay (where mavericks is), that water is always cold
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  Quote Phatman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/06/2009 at 4:27pm
Growing up in FL I surfed about 51 weeks out of the year in boardshorts and a 2mm jacket. Now I live in New England and you have to wear a fullsoot into fecking June. Winter on the Atlantic is when all the swells, other than hurricane swells, come.


The tail on my fish is 14.5, I think, I really like it so far.
A thermos keeps hot stuff hot, and cold stuff cold.....BUT HOW DOES IT KNOW???
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  Quote hana24 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/06/2009 at 4:30pm
Originally posted by Timmay_650

]^^ In So Cal? Tell that is a joke. You can get away just fine using a spring suit. I have been surfing in So Cal on Christmas without a wetsuit.
If you want Cold water come to half moon bay (where mavericks is), that water is always cold


I think it's relative LOL  I was dying from cold in the water in socal...my hands and feet went numb with a 3/2 full suit in winter.  I think I'll freeze more if I'm up in half moon bay.   
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  Quote Phatman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/06/2009 at 4:40pm
I hate wetsoots, but I would kill to be ablle to wear 3/2 in winter. up here its a minnimum of 5/4, with a hood booties and gloves
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  Quote hana24 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/06/2009 at 4:42pm
Originally posted by Phatman

I hate wetsoots, but I would kill to be ablle to wear 3/2 in winter. up here its a minnimum of 5/4, with a hood booties and gloves


Shocked  That is cold...I don't think I can be in the water then during winter if you need that much.  I get cold easily too.
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  Quote Timmay_650 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/06/2009 at 10:14pm
I like surfing best in a 3/2 wetsuit over board shorts or anything else. I learned how to really surf in a wet suit. So when I go down to So cal in the summer it just feels weird not to wear one. 
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  Quote Phatman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2009 at 2:41am
Originally posted by Timmay_650

]I like surfing best in a 3/2 wetsuit over board shorts or anything else. I learned how to really surf in a wet suit. So when I go down to So cal in the summer it just feels weird not to wear one. 


Some people up here are like that and wear their fullsoots year round, but personally I'd rather be a little cold than wear a wetsoot.
A thermos keeps hot stuff hot, and cold stuff cold.....BUT HOW DOES IT KNOW???
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  Quote VermontRider Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2009 at 4:06am
Originally posted by Phatman

Originally posted by Timmay_650

]I like surfing best in a 3/2 wetsuit over board shorts or anything else. I learned how to really surf in a wet suit. So when I go down to So cal in the summer it just feels weird not to wear one. 


Some people up here are like that and wear their fullsoots year round, but personally I'd rather be a little cold than wear a wetsoot.

+1
Usually, it's bareback or my 5/4. I'll bust out the spring for cool fall days, but prefer not to. Hate booties. Despise gloves and hood, but you have to do what you have to do.
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  Quote lineears Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2009 at 7:48am
I like to wear wet suit when i surf...dont' know what the difference between 3/2 or 5/4...
but hey, whatever keepsm e warm. water up here is definetly colder than the water down there lol..
 
but i've been slowly progessing..i've been able to stand up more than half the times on the surf board..long enough that i tried to turn but have no idea how.
 
any tips lol
Go Canucks!
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  Quote Timmay_650 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2009 at 9:08am
It seems like I always get a rash somewhere when I surf without one. So I like one better. But it is nice to not have to deal with one. If I did it more I would like it better and didn't get a rash.

Lineears
My advice for turning is stay low on the board like your body. A high center of gravity will make it harder to stay on. Don't try and do some huge carve just something small. You have a lot of board to move it won't move like a snowboard. Just put a little pressure on one side and hold it and keep your knees bent. Most people fine turning front side is a lot easier, so you would just roll you weight to the toes. Probable about the same amount of pressure as it would take to get you an edge on a snowboard.   
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  Quote Piranha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2009 at 12:02pm
I tried my 9 foot longboard about a week ago and I couldn't even ride the damn thing.  The waves were actually kinda decent 2-3 ft...maybe too good for my first time on a log.

anyway, I could stand up and go straight a few times, but I mostly pearled the nose.  The few times I tried to turn, I fell immediately.

strange, considering I skipped the whole longboard thing while learning and now I can rip pretty good on a shortboard...but can't even ride a stupid longboard.



don't know whether to sell the longboard or keep it around for when the waves are less than a foot...but , then again, I probably wouldn't even want to suit up for that crap
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  Quote Timmay_650 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/09/2009 at 6:03pm
I tried a longboard (8'0) a few days ago and taught some one how to surf but paddling of that things was so fast it was weird. The first few I didn't really paddle b/c i would of been too far inside. 
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  Quote Piranha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/10/2009 at 8:40am
yeah, the 9'0" paddles amazing (of course), but when I went to turn around for a wave, it took me forever to get it turned around. 

Plus, it was just so awkward to control because of the weight and size...I would need to be a lot stronger to even get close to be able to handle that thing (god forbid, it ever hit me in the head...it would probably crack my skull).  I can see why people get overwhelmed when trying to learn on them. 

ideally, I should have tried it on a tiny/mellow, but really long period ground swell...but we rarely get that (we usually get either medium to large ground swells or small to medium crumbly windswells)
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  Quote Timmay_650 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/10/2009 at 4:34pm
That is an art form Turning the board around and make be made to be as nice as a late drop into a barrel. If you get good, when I was longboarding a lot you can get you where you paddle as fast as you can to get an outside wave and right before you hit it you sit on the tail and spin it around fast and one strong paddle and you are on the wave it is sweet when it works.
I know what you mean about awkward. I don't have too much problem on my 8 it is pretty small for a long board and easy to move but when I go down to San Diego I ride my cousin's long boards. They have huge ones the only one I like is for my 14 girl cousin which is a 9'0. The Rest are tanks. I have fallen over so many times on those things. Trying to turn them but they just go straight and my body does the turning.
When you get to a 9'0 you have to learn how to walk them just to ride them well. If you are not one the tail of my cousins board it will not turn.
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