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Topic ClosedAm i waxing correctly-

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Seanyo23 View Drop Down
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Me Shreddin the Flag

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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Am i waxing correctly-
    Posted: Nov/16/2010 at 2:49pm
So i got this wax called  Dakine High Octane Rub on Wax. And i never waxed before i just thought ill use this stuff for this first time. So i haven't waxed my snowboard since i got it. i only boarded like 15 times. So im pretty sure it needed wax. So how do i put this on? I tried rubbing it on and used the cork to rub in the wax back and forth. Is that what i am supposed to do? My board before looked dry and it was real smooth on the bottom. Now my board is shiny. Is it supposed to be shiny?

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/16/2010 at 2:51pm
if you followed the instructions i'm sure you are fine. rub on wax will wear off way faster than hot wax though.
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MTpow View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/16/2010 at 2:53pm
rub on wax sucks.... doesn't last long at all.  you should probably go have your board waxed at a shop...theres lots of videos on the interwebz on how to wax your board as well.  research is your friend
MOAR powderz plz!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/16/2010 at 2:55pm
that stuff lasts about a run....
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romangarcia View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/16/2010 at 2:58pm
Originally posted by Seanyo23

So i got this wax called  Dakine High Octane Rub on Wax. And i never waxed before i just thought ill use this stuff for this first time. So i haven't waxed my snowboard since i got it. i only boarded like 15 times. So im pretty sure it needed wax. So how do i put this on? I tried rubbing it on and used the cork to rub in the wax back and forth. Is that what i am supposed to do? My board before looked dry and it was real smooth on the bottom. Now my board is shiny. Is it supposed to be shiny?

that kin of wax isn't the best, but you do it ok.
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Seanyo23 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/16/2010 at 2:59pm
Aight thanks. Yea ill probs go to a shop to get a guy to do it for me. Oh and their are no instructions for the wax.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/16/2010 at 3:00pm
^^^ wow. it doesnt even say "good luck"? haha
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/16/2010 at 3:08pm
oh's nose! first steal your grandmas iron the one with NO HOLES! get good wax I prefer floro-carbon, get a sharp Plexiglas scraper, buffing pads! first loosen your binding screws so your base wont warp from heating. melt wax on to board and smooth in with warm non smoking iron.wait to cool scrape and buff if your board is really dirty then do a hot scrape wax with all temp soft wax this will bring most of the silt and dirt up to the surface replacing it with wax , then scrape it off while its still warm or hot. but if you get someone else to change your oil in your car get someone else to wax your board fumble fingers fux it up
live like mountain, flow like river
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whoanelly View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/16/2010 at 3:16pm
First heat the wax so that it is molten but not too hot to touch. Then apply to the area you wish to wax, and immediately place a strip on top. Let cool for a minute, and then pull the strip off against the grain. Do not re-use wax or strips. Hope this helps.
Wait what?
Thats whats up.
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Skio25 View Drop Down
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Just board at the cabin

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/16/2010 at 3:23pm
I'm stealing this thread for my question.
 
Is hot waxing outside in (probably at least 30 degrees) temperatures...but possibly 20's a bad idea for any reason?
Does the wax dry real quick just being cold from the outside temp?
I'd much rather do it outside than put newspaper and everything down inside and deal with the mess.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/16/2010 at 3:29pm
You can't really rub on wax the wrong way lol.  But it's really not worth the effort as it'll be gone within a few runs.

Hot wax or don't bother at all
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keljai View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/16/2010 at 3:31pm
yes just keep rubbing it in. RUb on wax arn't really great, they are more for last second critical situation when you would use it. Best to hot wax, just go search or goggle it
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/16/2010 at 11:14pm
Hot waxing with an iron is the only way to penetrate the base and have any lasting effect. Rub on wax will seriously ask one or two runs at the most, as it simply strips off the base. That being said, you should be waxing at least every 3 days you ride to really maximise your boards performance.
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jjang1294 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/21/2010 at 8:18am
Instead of paying someone, use that money and invest it in the equipment to do it yourself. It's pretty simple to learn from all of the videos on youtube.
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chenmt View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/21/2010 at 8:29am
waxing in cold temperatures may pose problems depending on your wax. make a compromise if you don't want to do it inside and do it in a basement or a garage. sometimes if you try waxing outside, it just solidifies again too quickly to get nice even ironing.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/21/2010 at 8:33am
Originally posted by chenmt

waxing in cold temperatures may pose problems depending on your wax. make a compromise if you don't want to do it inside and do it in a basement or a garage. sometimes if you try waxing outside, it just solidifies again too quickly to get nice even ironing.


Yeah it's definitely better to use hot wax but it is also nice to bring some rub on wax on the slope if you need it
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/21/2010 at 8:34am
Skio25:    Its not good for your board to heat it up when its cold. That's why shops will let it warm up inside before they wax it. Think about pouring boiling water on a frozen windshield....doesn't always turn out so well.
Nitro Rook 156, Burton Cartels
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/21/2010 at 8:39am


How to actually wax your snowboard (Budget tips included)


Here are the steps for the most thurough waxing. I will document what steps you can skip when. I will also document the expensive options, and the EXPENSIVE options available to you.


First -- Remove old wax / clean base:

Cleaning the base of old wax, dirt, and other things that get in there is a good thing to do once in a while. Depending on how often you ride, it may be a good idea to do this every so often. MOST riders won't need to do this besides right before the season begins. However, it's good to know how it works.

There are two ways to do this, the expensive but easy way, and then the thrifty and not that much more complex way. The easy but expensive method, is to purchase base cleaning solution from a shop. Research the options available in the store and their prices. A base cleaner is a base cleaner so brand names be damned. Also, check out the ski sections of your local shops. Ski waxing supplies are often cheaper and damn near identical in composition. When you get the cleaner, it will have directions. Most directions simply read: Apply to board, rub in. Douse in water to remove. Wait until dry. Clean with damp cloth again to ensure removal.

Then... there's the thrifty way. Goto your local hardware store (See end of document for FULL list of good stuff to get at hardware store) and purchase a good sized container of kerosine or lamp oil. If getting lamp oil purchase UNSCENTED as the chemical additives are no good and harder to wash off. Don't fret about the oil or kerosine being that flamable. It's actually not that bad. Douse a rag in kerosine, and rub the hell out of your base. This will thuroughly remove the wax from your base. Rub thuroughly, then douse in water to remove. Whipe again with a DIFFERENT wet cloth.


Now that your base is clean, waxing the board is next. A note on purchasing wax: All temperature wax is advised for beginners or even your average rider. The fancy stuff is just overkill for anything but the most advanced riders. A great way to get cheap wax is to goto the skiier side of your shop (Snowboarders perpetually try and sell you ove priced one ball jay products) and ask for a brick of generic all temperature wax. For $12 you'll get a MASSIVE brick of wax that will wax your board, and all of your friends boards for the whole season.

Start by getting your iron to an ideal temperature. YES you can use a laundry iron. Simply adjust the temperature to be right between cotton and wool, and if the iron starts smoking promptly remove it from the board and adjust the temperature DOWN (towards off). Press the wax that you have against the iron, and drip so as the board is fairly well covered. Be sure to thuroughly dose the edges as they are your primary riding surface. Once the board is covered a fair bit in wax (a drip or two per square inch), apply the iron to the base which is covered in wax. Travel in SLOW circular motions, and heat up all the wax and spread it out accross the base. You will want to do this until you can feel the opposite side of the board being warm for the better part of the board. This ensures that the base has warmed up and expanded to absorb all of the wax that it can.

At this point, let the base cool all the way down. Walk away for a good twenty minutes or so. At this point there is the option to deep soak your base, which is where you repeat the prior process described, adding additional wax as you feel is nescessary. By repeating the soaking process 2-4 times you esnure that the base truely has soaked up all of the wax that it can, and helps ensure the longevity of it. I advise waxing your board like this at the start of every season. When waxing your board mid season you generally only need to do a single soak, as just your edges will run dry.

Next is scraping the excess wax off the board. As the wax is soaked into the base, everything that can be scraped off is excess. You can buy a scraper at a shop for cheap (go generic with scrapers to save $) or you can buy a small piece of square fiberglass from the hardware store. Make sure it's as wide as your board to ensure proper scraping. Start at one end of the board (tip or tail) and drag the scraper down the board, removing the excess wax. NEVER go horizontally as you'll damage the boards base potentially and it's structure. Proceed until all the excess wax has been removed. BE THUROUGH! Excess wax just results in additional friction, and as it is poorly shaped (unlike a smooth base) it will resist water flowing over it. Wax once again... isn't slick...

So once you've thuroughly removed all excess wax, you'll want to buff your board. Scotch Brite pads actually work the best. Get em, rub the piss out of your boad, and it'll come out smooth. Once again, tip to tail travels on those brushing. Once that is done, and the board is smooth, you'll want to STRUCTURE the base. You do this with a fine bristled brush. You drag from tip to tail harshly. This leaves grooves in the base. These grooves allow water to travel faster accross the base, and in retrospect result in you traveling faster. It also helps reduce the suction cup effect of two smooth surfaces with water inbetween them. A brush can be bought at your snowboard shop for $12-15, or a brush can be bought at a hardware store for $4. The choice is yours...

Once that's done, your board is done! It's ready to rip! Get out there and enjoy your properly waxed snowboard!
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