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Topic ClosedSurfing a Standing Wave

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Sintexo View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Surfing a Standing Wave
    Posted: May/02/2011 at 9:48am
Saw this video of surfers digging a channel in the sand where the Waimea river in Hawaii meets the shoreline, creating a ridiculous standing wave that everyone could surf and thought I'd share it.  Looks like it'd be real fun.


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 9:54am
That's frickin Sick!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 9:55am
Thats pretty awesome, i would love to 'try' to ride on that, it looks like a blast
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 10:01am
It's amazing how quickly that channel grew in size. It went from like 3 feet wide to like 30 feet wide in no time. Seeing stuff like this makes me wish I could surf.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 10:25am
I that looks awesome but I would be worried about losing a fin but I would take that risk.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 10:27am
That's awesome, but just imagine what it did to all the animals that live in and around that river, hate to be the eco freak, but it just made me think how much water they took from the river.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 10:29am
That is a really awesome, natural application of physics...versus some big machine!!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 10:33am
yeah looks awesome just like MtMansfield said, probably not eco friendly
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 10:36am
me being a newbie... i'd be washed away into the ocean....

but damn that would be fun to try...
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 10:38am
Originally posted by MtMansfield

That's awesome, but just imagine what it did to all the animals that live in and around that river, hate to be the eco freak, but it just made me think how much water they took from the river.

I saw this mentioned, dunno how factual it is though.

"Science Lesson: River builds up behind sand berm at High-Tide level (at many rivers around the world), you wait until low-tide and breach that sand berm and allow the river to resume flowing and then surf!

Next high-tide rebuilds the sand berm/beach, and river backs up again.

No environmental damage, no ruining of beaches, no wasting of fresh water or diluting salt water. Just letting the stagnant river flow again. chill dudes... :)"

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 10:44am
wow, that's awesome.  looks like so much fun.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 10:48am
very creative, seems fun.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 10:52am
It reminds me of the Flowrider they have on some of the Royal Caribbean cruise ships.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 11:24am
Originally posted by heischjr

It reminds me of the Flowrider they have on some of the Royal Caribbean cruise ships.

Was thinking that as well. Looks like lots of fun!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 11:36am
that's baller. my surfer friends would freak when i show them this
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 11:48am
standing waves are so cool...I watched a volcom commercial a while ago where they found a huge standing wave in a river in Indonesia...it was pretty big too...super sick cause they are legit in the middle of no where
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 12:10pm
you can surf year-round in Munich....
we have a standing waveTongue
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 12:14pm
youtube vid here....

tis a canal from the river isar that flows through the English Gardens... and at this particular bridge, there is a standing wave that ppl surf year-round....


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 12:33pm
The group of people who thought of that are pretty smart to think of something like that. It looks like one of those water resorts but this is like the diy version. Nice.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 1:11pm
It's pretty much a man made flowrider. How did the water pick up like that?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 1:12pm
This video is sooo sick. Some really smart people have to be able to come up with something like this. The beach kinda got ruined though, wonder if the rangers got mad
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 1:18pm
Originally posted by Von44

It's pretty much a man made flowrider. How did the water pick up like that?

Gravity.  When the tide goes down, the water stays trapped in the area behind the beach.  They dug a channel for the water to flow downhill from the trapped area to the ocean.  As the water flowed, it caused erosion of the sand in the channel, making it wider and allowing more water to enter.  This process continued and you get the huge channel.

Originally posted by NewCastle4

This video is sooo sick. Some really smart people have to be able to come up with something like this. The beach kinda got ruined though, wonder if the rangers got mad

I tried reading up on this, and apparently it seems they do it 2-3 times a year.  When the high tide comes back in, it basically fixes itself.  See the quote I put in above for more.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 6:41pm
this is sick, i'd be so down to do this but it looks like so much work...
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 6:59pm
I surf, but I've never surfed a standing wave.  That looked sick, especially since they started out with nothing, dug it by hand, and then let nature take its course.  That thing got rippin towards the end of the video.  The back was preety high that the people were standing on watching it.  I'd love to at least take a body board out there like a lot of the other people.  Looked like it got flowing enough that the short boarders couldn't keep it in the sweet spot and kept getting spit out the back side.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 7:00pm
its so cool how it was so small and then the river made it so big
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 7:32pm
Wow, really cool. Did they get in trouble though by the local police ?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 8:05pm
looks like a pretty RAD wave! if only those existed in socal! 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 8:05pm
That is pretty awesome! It's so simple but most people probably would never even think of the concept!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 8:47pm
wow! That is so cool!

I thought it was going to be something natural, but no, all thought up. Its crazy how much the size of the wave grew.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 9:47pm
this looks sick, I hardly beleive they did it with their hands))
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 9:47pm
Sorry.. Hands and Showels))
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 11:23pm
That looks like it would be a blast
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2011 at 11:43pm
Pretty sick video and it looks like an absolute blast.  The imagination of some.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 4:43am
I wish I had access to a beach like that. And for that matter I wish I could surf. Maybe I'll figure it out this summer.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 6:58am
Ha ha that is nuts!!  Freakin' smart surfers!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 7:09am
Originally posted by gamelessx25

Wow, really cool. Did they get in trouble though by the local police ?

I don't think so.  Obviously I don't know all the details, but from what I could find out about it, they do it a few times a year, and the beach fixes itself the next time the tide comes back in.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 7:09am
That's absolutely amazing! I too was worried about the ecological effects of doing such a thing but according to the earlier post, it all resets after the tides come in.

This makes me really want to learn how to surf!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 7:42am
Originally posted by derbytownjoe

you can surf year-round in Munich....
we have a standing wave


I was lucky enough to check this out in March. It was pretty sick seeing the locals, I would have never thought I was going to see surfing in Munich!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 7:55am
The Amazon has something similar too.
 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 8:03am
i wish they had done this when i was there!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 8:05am
Awesome videos, it'd be fun making your own Flowrider on the beach
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 8:06am
Man thats pretty cool, i wish i could surf.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 11:26am
Originally posted by LittleShooey

The Amazon has something similar too.
 


Haha the amazon would be taking it too far for me. I would be afraid of some killer fish hoping out of there and eating me. Haha I know there is no basis to that fear probably but I wouldn't want to touch that. The idea all together is so sweet though. Shows that boarders (surfers in particular) know a tad about physics and science even though they are written off as idiots
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 12:24pm
that is an amazing video. very creative of those guys
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 12:27pm
Wow very cool
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 1:45pm
Nice man that's sick. Good stuff. I wonder how long it took to get that big.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 2:25pm
that is pretty cool, but then they just killed a pond or river ro whatever was in the back... lets hope no natural changes will occur due to it 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 2:50pm
Originally posted by winn

that is pretty cool, but then they just killed a pond or river ro whatever was in the back... lets hope no natural changes will occur due to it 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 2:58pm
its true sintexo. its not like they can refill the pool or simply stop the waterflow easily. l share teh same concern with the eco guy up top
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2011 at 3:06pm
I know.  I facepalmed because you obviously only read a few posts above, as I mentioned how that works multiple times.

Originally posted by Sintexo

Originally posted by MtMansfield

That's awesome, but just imagine what it did to all the animals that live in and around that river, hate to be the eco freak, but it just made me think how much water they took from the river.

I saw this mentioned, dunno how factual it is though.

"Science Lesson: River builds up behind sand berm at High-Tide level (at many rivers around the world), you wait until low-tide and breach that sand berm and allow the river to resume flowing and then surf!

Next high-tide rebuilds the sand berm/beach, and river backs up again.

No environmental damage, no ruining of beaches, no wasting of fresh water or diluting salt water. Just letting the stagnant river flow again. chill dudes... :)"

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