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| | | bryman | | | View Drop Down
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  Quote | | | bryman | | | Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Biking
    Posted: Oct/11/2013 at 11:52am
Blllllaaaaggggghhhhhh!



I started cruising around the last couple weeks after I got a 29er mtb, those big wheels roll.  Above is a little video with my dogs, this area is right behind my house here in SW reno.  The brown pow is kinda fun but I'm ready for some snow (and I think I see some up there right now, looks like the levels came down to almost 6k feet !!!)

-b
get bent
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  Quote diviesti Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/03/2013 at 8:43am
Originally posted by clive27

I bought mine (a road bike) a few years ago (I forgot... like 6 years ago?) from internet. It cost me ~$700 and they said if you buy it from a brand name with same component, it would cost $1500.
So.. I guess it's a decent bike.
I live in So. Cal and I ride my bike on the beach once a month. I tried century once but failed at 80 miles. (started having muscle cramp every few minutes) I'm going to try that again this Friday!!!
 

Sounds like you bought it from bikes direct. Good luck on the century, that had to be tough stopping 20 miles short



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  Quote clive27 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/02/2013 at 6:29pm
I bought mine (a road bike) a few years ago (I forgot... like 6 years ago?) from internet. It cost me ~$700 and they said if you buy it from a brand name with same component, it would cost $1500.
So.. I guess it's a decent bike.
I live in So. Cal and I ride my bike on the beach once a month. I tried century once but failed at 80 miles. (started having muscle cramp every few minutes) I'm going to try that again this Friday!!!
 
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  Quote j_lucky84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/26/2013 at 2:34pm
Gonna buy my second bike here in a couple weeks. It's too small for my lanky ass, but it's a bit of nostalgia from my childhood, and I'd be more than happy to ride around lookin like sasquatch on a minibike :D
It's a 96 Trek Subhead, a 20" bmx that i used to own (when i was 11-12ish). It was unfortunately stolen. I decided to look it up the other day and found one for sale for $100. A buddy of mine is gonna be making a trip soon to the area the guy lives, and will bring it back for me... Happy days!

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  Quote Von44 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/13/2013 at 8:50pm
Originally posted by batmanwest

Originally posted by Von44

I just picked up a mtn bike from a police auction that I'm planning on using for school but the rear brakes need to be replaced. It had Shimano v-brakes. My question is, can I just replace them with any other set of Shimano v-brakes or is there a particular one? The specs didn't list the style- just said Shimano v-brakes.


Holy shit this site is so fucked...I know I know...I'm sure it's all been discussed in many other threads, but I haven't looked. I tried a few weeks back or whenever, but I almost had a seizure so I haven't been back.

ANYWAYS...on topic,
any v-brakes should work. Could probably even go to canties if you wanted via a problems solver seat clamp, but let's keep things simple here.

What makes the brake need replacing?

If you want to spend as little money as possible, but have a functioning brake, you can just slap a pair of entry level Tektro brakes on there for about 16 bucks..problem solved. In the low 20's you can pick up Shimano's entry pair as well at a significant increase in quality. Not mind blowing levels, but enough to be noted.
Keep in mind that a new set of brakes does not come with a new cable, so if the cable is all fuckered up and if the noodle is bent or worn out that will need to be replaced as well. Also make sure the housing ends have clean cuts on them, and that they are not cracked and have smooth bends in them. Any kink in the housing, will cause your brake to feel like shit regardless.
Thanks for the reply batmanwest. It was noted during the auction that the rear brakes need to be replaced. I guess that's why I ended up nabbing the bike for $70. When I picked it up, I gave it a test ride and they weren't kidding. Rear brakes were completely shot! I was lucky I went slow just to be sure.

But yeah, I'm not looking to spend much on it. I just want something decent that'll work and won't give me trouble. I only asked about Shimano vbrakes cuz that's what they originally came with so I thought I'd stick to that. But I'll keep my options open and have a look around. Hopefully it's not too much of a pain to install.
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  Quote batmanwest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/13/2013 at 5:34pm
Originally posted by Von44

I just picked up a mtn bike from a police auction that I'm planning on using for school but the rear brakes need to be replaced. It had Shimano v-brakes. My question is, can I just replace them with any other set of Shimano v-brakes or is there a particular one? The specs didn't list the style- just said Shimano v-brakes.


Holy shit this site is so fucked...I know I know...I'm sure it's all been discussed in many other threads, but I haven't looked. I tried a few weeks back or whenever, but I almost had a seizure so I haven't been back.

ANYWAYS...on topic,
any v-brakes should work. Could probably even go to canties if you wanted via a problems solver seat clamp, but let's keep things simple here.

What makes the brake need replacing?

If you want to spend as little money as possible, but have a functioning brake, you can just slap a pair of entry level Tektro brakes on there for about 16 bucks..problem solved. In the low 20's you can pick up Shimano's entry pair as well at a significant increase in quality. Not mind blowing levels, but enough to be noted.
Keep in mind that a new set of brakes does not come with a new cable, so if the cable is all fuckered up and if the noodle is bent or worn out that will need to be replaced as well. Also make sure the housing ends have clean cuts on them, and that they are not cracked and have smooth bends in them. Any kink in the housing, will cause your brake to feel like shit regardless.
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  Quote Von44 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/12/2013 at 2:35pm
I just picked up a mtn bike from a police auction that I'm planning on using for school but the rear brakes need to be replaced. It had Shimano v-brakes. My question is, can I just replace them with any other set of Shimano v-brakes or is there a particular one? The specs didn't list the style- just said Shimano v-brakes.
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  Quote j_lucky84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/30/2013 at 5:23pm
Scratch that! Brought it to the bike shop and they took care of it :)
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  Quote j_lucky84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/29/2013 at 1:47pm
Hey BMW, any recommendations/things i should know about buyin a chain for my bike? It's a 27-speed.
 The chain that came with it isn't quite at 1 mm yet but will be soon and I don't wanna have to buy a new gear set.
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  Quote dy3versity Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/19/2013 at 12:29am


My Felt B16 during Ironman Lake Stevens. This thing rides fast!


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  Quote Muse25 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/18/2013 at 8:05pm
Originally posted by diviesti

This guy is amazing, a kids imagination really does fit this dudes style/ability



Wow!! This guys is amazing! It was like magic the way he preformed those tricks!
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  Quote Muse25 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/18/2013 at 7:54pm
Originally posted by coolz

thinking of starting a biking thing for summer, what is bike fit?

A bike fit is when they fit your bike to your body measurements. They do adjustments so you can get the right riding position and pedal stroke.
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  Quote coolz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/18/2013 at 7:47pm
thinking of starting a biking thing for summer, what is bike fit?
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  Quote Muse25 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/18/2013 at 7:35pm
Like I said before: I got a bike fit and WOW it makes a difference. Around mile 25 my shoulders burn and ache and when I got a fit I found out my stem position is too high. The bike feels so much comfortable now. Anyone in the bay area need a genius bike fitter call up Pedro at Sports Basement in the Persidio, SF. He's not only a bike fitter but a triathlete that knows his stuff.
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  Quote diviesti Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/02/2013 at 11:20am
Got the ole Tour of Utah coming through next week, planning on going to the final 2 stages. Those days its going over the big mountains around Park City, should get a good look at some of the pros, mainly looking forward to seeing Jens Voigt. Noticed some of them now are hitting the local roads on Strava and killing some of the KOMS.
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  Quote fj5 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/18/2013 at 10:06pm
Originally posted by diviesti

Originally posted by SGT712

My first road bike: Kestrel RT-1000


good lookin ride


I just started too!  Got this Norco CRR Team custom build at a pretty sweet price! (Shimano 105)

Still gotta change the pedals and swap some accessories.





Check out my channel & SUBSCRIBE! www.youtube.com/fj5
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  Quote batmanwest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/18/2013 at 10:52am
Originally posted by diviesti

Noticed Specialized has the 2014 early launch up on some bikes, and this Crux is a thing of beauty. Those Hydro disc brakes look amazing, just looking at this it makes me want to get into cyclocross.


Dude...yeah, the Crux for 14 are SICK. I personally am having a hard time getting over the look of the new Red Hydro levers though. That hood goes on for days.
I'm seriously thinking about getting the E5 Pro frameset for this winter (in the starburst colorway). It's either that, build up a motobecane frame into a franken bike (which I don't really have much desire for) or build up a fixie.

So many choices. I think in the long run I would be happier with the crux for a foul weather commuter, but a fixie would be less maintenance...which is kinda the point. I also already have a wheelset for a crux...hmmmm

The 14 mountain line is also pretty sweet. A swerks camber!?! Hellz yeah.
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  Quote derbytownjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/11/2013 at 2:09pm
so my plan for saturday is a bavarian 3-lakes alp tour....

65k with a bit over 1600m vert.....

hopefully i make it back in one piece...

sidenote- on the last few km, one of the local small villages is having a summer festival (read: lots of beer), so i might still be laying trail-side monday am... hahaha

Im Himmel gibt's kein Bier, drum trinken wir es hier.
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  Quote diviesti Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/11/2013 at 6:48am
Noticed Specialized has the 2014 early launch up on some bikes, and this Crux is a thing of beauty. Those Hydro disc brakes look amazing, just looking at this it makes me want to get into cyclocross.



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  Quote anna.chan18 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/08/2013 at 9:52pm
Originally posted by bootleg

video is a bit long but worth the time to watch it ,absolutely sick if you're into tricking/off trailing


SICK BIANCHI!!! very beautiful frame
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  Quote bootleg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/08/2013 at 9:46pm
video is a bit long but worth the time to watch it ,absolutely sick if you're into tricking/off trailing
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  Quote bootleg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/07/2013 at 12:10pm
Originally posted by batmanwest

Bootleg-Try some parktool fibergrip before using a second binder. Also, while it is possible to damage the frame and crush it by over tightening the clamp, it takes a LOT of torque to do it. If you have a torque wrench (or access to one) have you, or your LBS find the spec for that binder and take it just a hair past rating. But make sure to use some fibergrip...I really think that will help solve your problem. I've had to use that stuff on alloy handlebars when using SRAM matchmaker clamps. Stuff works like a dream.

Yeah I read about fibergrip being a good way to hold onto any post without slip but some say it a mess to clean up when replacing parts but i was able to hold the saddle up by torquing the clamp slighter tighter than normal but will eventually change to a upgrade from the alloy to carbon thanks for the advice.
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  Quote batmanwest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/02/2013 at 4:53am
Originally posted by mommehK

Okay bmw I know I put this in the "what do you drive" thread, but thought it would be a good idea to post up in here for future reference for folks.

I'm looking at a fork tow bar for my Tacoma...specifically the Yakima Locking Blockhead. Thoughts, ideas, opinions? I do need to tow two bikes eventually, and I'm not going the hitch mount route.


Not terribly familiar with Yakima stuff, but I would assume that any name brand fork bar will work just fine. A co-worker has the Thule Bed Rider 822XT, and it works great. I mean...bed bars are pretty basic, so it's hard to fuck-em-up...but it's nice and sturdy and works with a few standards of forks. Regardless of what bar you get, make sure it has locking cores. While I never suggest leaving your bike on any rack for a long period of time, it's nice to have the option to lock up your rig if you need to dip into a store for a bit.

SGT712-Never been a fan of Kestrel stuff...just doesn't do it for me, but I will say that's a pretty good set up for a first road bike. You mainly a dirt kid, or...?
What drive train does that thing come with? I see 105 shifters, but what else you got going on there?

Bootleg-Try some parktool fibergrip before using a second binder. Also, while it is possible to damage the frame and crush it by over tightening the clamp, it takes a LOT of torque to do it. If you have a torque wrench (or access to one) have you, or your LBS find the spec for that binder and take it just a hair past rating. But make sure to use some fibergrip...I really think that will help solve your problem. I've had to use that stuff on alloy handlebars when using SRAM matchmaker clamps. Stuff works like a dream.

Lastly...lets talk wheels....Big smile
Since you are talking higher end...what do you think about doing a full DA wheelset? DA as in DuraAce. Hands down, IMO, one of the sexiest track/fixed wheelset out there. Just so damn classic looking. On top of that, such a high quality of craftsmanship. DA hubs roll for DAYS. They use a slightly deeper rim profile so it gives you some of that bling to finish off a build. On par with price point of Zipps as well. 

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  Quote bootleg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/30/2013 at 9:58pm
BMW - the seatpost collar is design at a very awkward angle for cleaner aesthetic looks & hence why the clamp that they redesign isn't so effective for the new current models. I'm resolving the issue by installing a 2nd clamp just above the first collar which is gripping the post entire diameter. The reason why it slips I didn't want to torque the clamp screw too hard to where I'm afraid it will leave the collar flabs to cracking or breaking even though it's an 7005 alu. I'm thinking about putting some mavics ellipse/cosmic or go with a full Zipp wheelset with a custom track hub for the rear?
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  Quote rurchan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/30/2013 at 7:16pm
Originally posted by Winner#1

^ super fun video. Must have taken a while to build all that crap

Just to have the talent and imagination to build that is amazing and cool in itself. Then again there are people who have that ability but are too lazy to do it anyways
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  Quote anna.chan18 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/30/2013 at 9:16am
very good looking ride!
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  Quote diviesti Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/30/2013 at 8:48am
Originally posted by SGT712

My first road bike: Kestrel RT-1000



good lookin ride
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  Quote SGT712 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/30/2013 at 4:32am
My first road bike: Kestrel RT-1000


Quiver: GNU Park Pickle 156
Stance: 15/-9, 24"
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  Quote mommehK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/28/2013 at 10:16am
Okay bmw I know I put this in the "what do you drive" thread, but thought it would be a good idea to post up in here for future reference for folks.

I'm looking at a fork tow bar for my Tacoma...specifically the Yakima Locking Blockhead. Thoughts, ideas, opinions? I do need to tow two bikes eventually, and I'm not going the hitch mount route.
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  Quote bootleg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/25/2013 at 12:52pm
Originally posted by batmanwest

Alloy+Alloy=Use grease.
Alloy+Carbon=Use Fibergrip.
Carbon+Carbon=Use Fibergrip

For your current alloy and alloy set up, what kind of binder are you using? Quick release, Allen clap....brand?

In the past when we have a seat post (alloy+alloy) in the shop that wont stay up, we suggest/use the Salsa brand "Lip Locker" seat post clamp. Thing works like a charm, and adds some nice bling to the bike at a low cost. And they work!
There are other brands that have a "Lip Locker" style binder, but if possible/available, just go with the Salsa branded one. They rock.

While it is near impossible to damage an allloy seat post by over tightening, you can possibly crush the frame if you get carried away. A torque wench is always nice, but not always needed on an alloy frame/post.
Obviously a torque wrench should always be used on anything carbon.

Hope some of this helps. I would bet a few dollars that you just have a cheap binder and it just needs to be replaced. (Always grease the shit out of the post and inside the frame. Pro tip- a broken spoke works great for getting grease in seat posts, BB shells and pretty much anything that has a race/cone. Although, I prefer a grease gun and teflon grease for hubs. The standard ParkTool green works just fine for anything else. Cheaper too.

Don't feel bad. My trail bike came with a pretty shitty QR binder. Got a salsa on order in ano-red. BLING!

the frame is 7002 alloy using a alloy or alu seatpost as for the clamp it's a stock one that came with the frame I'm guessing the way they design the clamp was at a angled for a cleaner look and it doesn't clamp the entire post maybe at 65% at most I will post a picture up so you see what i mean of how weird of a design they did.As for grease I was using FinishLine Teflon grease but cleaned out of the seat tube to see if that was cause for slipping.I also hear you might have to clamp the binder post just to break in before riding.
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  Quote diviesti Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/25/2013 at 7:33am
Wonder how team Cannondale feels about there main steed doing this a few weeks before the Tour. 




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  Quote batmanwest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/24/2013 at 9:15pm
Originally posted by bootleg

Anyone know a good way to prevent seatpost slippage , I'm working with 7002 alloy with a alloy laprade or would a carbon post be a better solution? One more thing to grease or not to grease the post if you're trying not to have a seized seattube but don't want the unnecessary slip.


Alloy+Alloy=Use grease.
Alloy+Carbon=Use Fibergrip.
Carbon+Carbon=Use Fibergrip

For your current alloy and alloy set up, what kind of binder are you using? Quick release, Allen clap....brand?

In the past when we have a seat post (alloy+alloy) in the shop that wont stay up, we suggest/use the Salsa brand "Lip Locker" seat post clamp. Thing works like a charm, and adds some nice bling to the bike at a low cost. And they work!
There are other brands that have a "Lip Locker" style binder, but if possible/available, just go with the Salsa branded one. They rock.

While it is near impossible to damage an allloy seat post by over tightening, you can possibly crush the frame if you get carried away. A torque wench is always nice, but not always needed on an alloy frame/post.
Obviously a torque wrench should always be used on anything carbon.

Hope some of this helps. I would bet a few dollars that you just have a cheap binder and it just needs to be replaced. (Always grease the shit out of the post and inside the frame. Pro tip- a broken spoke works great for getting grease in seat posts, BB shells and pretty much anything that has a race/cone. Although, I prefer a grease gun and teflon grease for hubs. The standard ParkTool green works just fine for anything else. Cheaper too.

Don't feel bad. My trail bike came with a pretty shitty QR binder. Got a salsa on order in ano-red. BLING! LOL
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  Quote bootleg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/24/2013 at 9:06am
Anyone know a good way to prevent seatpost slippage , I'm working with 7002 alloy with a alloy laprade or would a carbon post be a better solution? One more thing to grease or not to grease the post if you're trying not to have a seized seattube but don't want the unnecessary slip.
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  Quote batmanwest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/24/2013 at 7:25am
Man, that blows about your shoes DTJ! I mean..how do you walk off with someones shoes?!

Just put in an order for some new s-works mtb tires. Should be here in time for a weekend long trail riding/camping trip I have planned next month. Also picked up some new full finger gloves. Been having a hell of a time trying to keep my hands dry anytime I ride more than 15 miles at a time. It has been pretty warm and humid here lately, but I think I just sweat too much. I was thinking about making the switch over to half fingers..but after riding a few miles with a friends pair, I just can't stand the feel. Need my full finger coverage to get a good grippy feel.

I think the plan is to just bring two pairs of gloves with me anytime I ride. Then i can just switch out to a dry pair when i sweat out a set. Kinda weak sauce but I guess I just gotta live with being such a beast LOL

Picked this buddy up a few weeks ago and really like it. Not a fan of how hot it makes my back, but to be able to carry up to 3 liters of water, a full days worth of "nutrition" (gels, blocks and so on), a mini bike shop, and a tall boy, I'll deal. Digging the magnet lock for the hose, much better than a camel back.



So having more miles on the camber, I'm really starting to get in the groove of how it rides. Still not the biggest fan of how it climbs, but that's what this---> http://www.ridefox.com/icd/index.html is for Wink.
But really though, this bike takes a hell of a beating. Launched it into a tree a few days ago, thrashed it in a few rock gardens, and dropped it down some decent ledges...still rolling strong.
The only issue I really am having is my rear hydro hose has rubbed the paint down to bare metal on the non drive side chain stay. A little annoying, but as long as it is only cosmetic, I could care less. Keeping an eye on it though, as I don't want it to possibly blow out of hose on a ride..
As I mentioned above, I'm strongly looking at getting a full Fox iCD system for the cambie next year. Just gotta see what pricing looks like after EP. Hmmm...me thinks the wife is going to kill me LOL
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  Quote Winner#1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/21/2013 at 7:29am
^ super fun video. Must have taken a while to build all that crap
Winner # 1: Winner#1
(still waiting for the day)
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  Quote diviesti Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/20/2013 at 5:45pm
This guy is amazing, a kids imagination really does fit this dudes style/ability


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  Quote rurchan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/12/2013 at 2:03pm

obviously depending on location, some farmer's markets have free bike maintenence. There are 2 different farmer's markets around my area where they have free maintenence.

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  Quote derbytownjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/12/2013 at 11:39am
so on saturday, i was down on the river grilling out with a bunch of friends for a bday party...

got pretty smashed.... but when i went to leave(i rode my bike down) i went to also collect my bike shoes, as i was wearing flip flops on the river, and someone decided apparently to snag my used specialized mtb shoes.... WTF......Confused

so today i was in town and popped into a local sports shop just to look around, and totally walked with a helluva deal!

i snagged a pair of shimano mt43l's for €45

and all bike accys were 20% off, so the €15 sh511 cleats only cost me €12Big smile
Im Himmel gibt's kein Bier, drum trinken wir es hier.
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  Quote diviesti Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/12/2013 at 5:32am
Watched the Ole Levi Effect on Universal Sports last night.  I always admired him from a distance, then when he admitted to doping I pretty much stopped caring about him. I figured this was made before his admission of guilt, and it was a celebration of himself so I had no intentions of ever watching it. Glad I did, it was rather entertaining. Nothing like watching his team director telling him to "Eat Shit" 50 times during his TT. I would say it restored some of my respect for him, and it really made me want to move to Santa Rosa if anything. 
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  Quote batmanwest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/10/2013 at 4:37pm
Originally posted by diviesti

The tube that blew out was my spare tube that I've had sittin around in my saddle bag for probably two+ years. It split about 2 inches from the valve stem on the underside. Hard place to pinch, and it literally came apart down the seam. Either way it was time to upgrade to lighter tubes LOL

BMW what do you think about airlock sealant? 


Fair enough.

As for sealant, I say NO. Well...unless you are using it for sew-ups. I would think about using a sealant if I had a set of tubulars, but I don't have a set...soooo. LOL

I mean, I do use stans for a tubeless conversion on my mtn. bike, but that's all. There are also a few legit tubeless road applications these days, and have thought about giving a set of those a try, but any extra dollars these days I have for bikes goes into the trail bike.
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  Quote Muse25 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/10/2013 at 9:47am
...To do the Honolulu century again or not? Anyone doing any centuries, metric century or fun rides this summer?
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  Quote diviesti Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/10/2013 at 9:17am
The tube that blew out was my spare tube that I've had sittin around in my saddle bag for probably two+ years. It split about 2 inches from the valve stem on the underside. Hard place to pinch, and it literally came apart down the seam. Either way it was time to upgrade to lighter tubes LOL

BMW what do you think about airlock sealant? 
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  Quote batmanwest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/10/2013 at 8:29am
Originally posted by diviesti

Blew threw two tubes on Sunday before I even made it out the door. First one my pump broke the tip off the presta valve, seen this one coming since I bent it about a month ago. Second one must have been a bad tube, blew apart at the seam once I put full pressure in it. Needless to say my planned 50 miler didn't even make it out the door. 

Gonna pick up some Turbo Ultra Light Tubes to replace them with. I'll see if I notice any difference. 


Bent valves suck.

As for the blow out....I would doubt the tube was defective. Not trying to be an ass, but in the thousands of flats I have changed, I have never once seen a defective tube. User error, yes. Sounds like you just pinched the tube during install.

Turbo's are easier to blow up because of how thin their walls are. But, they are the only tubes I use on my Allez. IMO, they are easier to install because they are covered in powder which makes it harder to pinch-tube pretty much seats itself in the tire casing.

As far as weight difference (if you were talking about that) you will notice a difference switching over to turbo's from regular tubes. Easier to get up to speed, and should notice it on sprints.
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  Quote diviesti Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/10/2013 at 7:13am
Blew threw two tubes on Sunday before I even made it out the door. First one my pump broke the tip off the presta valve, seen this one coming since I bent it about a month ago. Second one must have been a bad tube, blew apart at the seam once I put full pressure in it. Needless to say my planned 50 miler didn't even make it out the door. 

Gonna pick up some Turbo Ultra Light Tubes to replace them with. I'll see if I notice any difference. 
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  Quote rzero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/06/2013 at 9:52am
Originally posted by davidhn2

Just got into biking! got a pretty cheap first bike, but it does the job!



Good to hear, be safe out there and enjoy!
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  Quote davidhn2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/06/2013 at 7:14am
Just got into biking! got a pretty cheap first bike, but it does the job!


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  Quote red_baron Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/05/2013 at 9:06pm
went on a little ride with my sister today....she got wrecked but laughed about it

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  Quote batmanwest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/04/2013 at 5:09pm
Originally posted by bootleg



it's crazy how no one hasn't taken your zipp, sick wind chime or bicycle parts dream catcher LOL


Well...they would be up shit creek if they did. Thing is busted to all hell, just like every other part of it. Zipp was ran over by a car, pro-lite blew up on the braking surface due to poor design, the easton carbon bars have been crashed, chipped, and crushed. Rotors have almost half their braking surface gone due to over use, and all cogs are from either cranks or cassettes that have over 50k miles on them.

I am thinking about moving it to the back yard though, and hanging it in the ravine. The wife thinks it makes us look like the "house with too much shit" in the front yard....Ermm
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  Quote j_lucky84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/04/2013 at 11:49am
That's a pretty cool piece of work, BMW :) It would last about 2 seconds in front of my house. And glad you're gettin some good miles in on the new ride.
I did a lil 30 mile loop over the weekend. Got a new seat and tweaked some stuff to try to be more comfortable. The knee held up alright, but was a bit tight toward the end of the run.
Almost ran over a Pomeranian :)
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  Quote bootleg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/04/2013 at 11:22am
Originally posted by batmanwest

Bootleg, not too versed in NEW Bianchi, but as far as I know, as long as the new HS is 1 1/8th you should be fine. From what I tell there isn't any thing super special about that steer tube and head tube. For good measure I would put a pair of calipers on it though and measure it out.
Yeah I'm going to use the calipers just to be extra sure , I'm not enjoying their head tube design either especially when it deserves more than just a lousy integrated hs which they should of redesign it since the discontinued model from 2009 concepts.

it's crazy how no one hasn't taken your zipp, sick wind chime or bicycle parts dream catcher LOL
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