Biking

Originally posted by batmanwest Originally posted by dy3versity This is my bike. It's a 2011 felt B16. I use it for all my triathlon races. This is the setup I will be using for Ironman California 70.3 and Ironman Lake Tahoe next year! Oh dear...a tri rider...odd bunch you all are I kid, I kid. Although, every single tri bike I have worked on was covered in un-healthy amounts of sweat and piss. How do you like that Planet X wheel set? From what I hear they are pretty decent at a nice price, but overall tension and the cassette bodies are pretty weak. I've never ridden with them, or physically seen them in person, so... Just got done giving a friends bike a little tune up. Didn't realize she had such a cool little bike. Nothing over the top, nothing super fancy, no weight saving titanium bolts, no carbon fiber...Just some 4130 Reynolds Cro-mo and weird (I think...) late 80's/early 90's Raleigh tube design. Full Shimano Exage 500 groupo on it too, which was nice.  Some times I tend to forget not everything has to have carbon or "designer" metals to rock. I get too surrounded by crazy new tech at my job. Would have to say that (other than pay) is the only thing I don't like about the place. Anyways, popped off a few lower quality bike porn photos for all ya....

Little thread revival with something that came in the mail today. It's been a good day around the shop. Free snowboard, new binders, and my EP from serfas came through! Picked up a matching set of their "new" Thunderbolt line of lights.

Originally posted by Muse25 You must get this question asked a lot, but how much heavier is disk brakes to v-brakes? Just want to gauge how much muscle I have to put into climbing with them?

Thanks for the no smoking vibes man. Really going to help my riding too once my body gets over the shock of not smoking..


Here is the thing about weight and bicycles...the place where it REALLY matters is rotational weight. Mainly your wheels, but drive train as well to some small degree. Drop just 100 grams per wheel and you will notice a HUGE difference in how much energy it takes to get your rig up to speed and climbing.

This summer I when I got my hardtail, the first upgrade I did was replacing the rubber that came stock on the bike. By switching to a race tire (s-works baby!! ) I dropped 200g on the front wheel, and 245g on the rear. Then, I replaced my normal tubes with Specialized "turbo" 9er tubes and dropped roughly another 40g per tire. That's 525 grams removed from my rotational weight....insane IMO. Insane and I could feel it from the first pedal.

Now...I work in a shop and yes I get parts at a pretty good discount. For the regular person that doesn't work in a shop dropping that 525g would of cost around $150 bucks. Sure that's not a number to sneeze at, but to drop that kind of weight, that is fairly cheap. To get weight savings in those numbers by replacing the wheelset, you are talking around the $1000 mark. So hands down anytime a customer at my shop wants to drop weight off their bike/make it perform better I will suggest race tires and either light weight tubes or going with a Stan's tubeless set up.

Okay, back on track, what I am trying to get at is the nominal weight difference between V-Brakes and Disc is so slight, there literally is no way you will notice. BUT, the rotors are attached to the hub which is attached to the wheel and it spins....why would I not be worried about some boat anchor of a rotor adding to my rotational weight!?!!
Well...it is true that the rotor will add a slight bit of extra rotational weight to your rig, but when considering rotational weight, think of it like this. The further out the weight is on the wheel, the more of a factor it will have with how the bike feels when climbing/sprinting/cornering. Since the rotor is mounted to the hub, it is so far in that the extra 120 grams or so makes such a small difference that once again you wont really notice.

NOW....after all this gibberish that I typed for you, the biggest thing you should think about with brakes is how well do the perform? V-brakes were great and cool back in the days (90's) but with how cheap you can get a set of discs for, V's don't make sense. The stopping power you can get with even the shittiest rotors, it will almost always be more than a nice set of Vs running a good set of pads.

There are countless advantages to rotors over V's. The biggest IMO is that you are not using the rim surface to slow yourself down. While mtn. biking all kinds of shit gets on your rim, that clog up the pads, and reduce friction between said pad and rim surface. Rotors are further away from the ground thus making dirt/mud build up harder to happen. But, when that buildup does happen, the nice "notching" of the rotor surface allows contaminates to be expelled from the braking surface and THUS making more of a consistent stopping power!

Once you get into hydro disc you get the added advantage of 1. Excellent brake modulation (control) and 2. You don't have to worry about all that trail grime clogging the housing and corroding a cable. 3. There is no cable to snap!

There are down falls to disc, as the rotors can be a bit tricky to true, and a lot ( and I mean a lot) of lower to mid level systems will be loud. They will brake fine, but they will squeal like a bitch.

I could go on for days, but my wife is giving me that look that she wants to use the laptop so I must depart.

Moral of the story, you are building up a frame, Start it off right and put disc on there. Let me know a price range and I can suggest a few different types if you want. Frame builds are FUN, so get at it!

Originally posted by Muse25 Awesome!!!! Thanks for the info! That really put things into prospective. What would be a good weight for an all mtn wheelset?

Well...it depends on what your price point is, really. 1600-1800g for the wheelset is a pretty average weight. Now, it's a bit more complicated than that though. You could spend over a grand for a W.S. and not get under the 1600g weight point. You could also spend less than 500 for a W.S. and totally get under the 16000g weight point.

Rather than be one of those weight weenies I would focus more on build quality of the wheels and stay within a set budget.
Having a frame build on your hands you are in a fun position. You get to choose EVERYTHING that goes on the bike. You can mix and match to your hearts desires. But you should do so in a smart, thought out way. If you don't know about components ask for some help.
I am more than happy to help guild you through the process, and give advice, but I would also suggest that if you have a LBS do your shopping there! At least most of it. I would bet they could offer some advice as well

Shoot me an idea of the least you would like to spend for the build, and what your max budget would be. Also, did the frame come with a front fork, or do you just have a bare bones frame?

Originally posted by Muse25 Also, I plan to spend maybe $100-$120 on a disk broke system. I was looking on eBay and I'm not sure about used disk brakes.

First off, if you don't know what to look for, stay away from anything used online. It's not the case with most people, but there are a few shady folks out there, and without knowing some of these systems in and out, you could end up with a broken, REALLY worn, or defective product on your hands. At the same time though, ebay is good at trying to remedy this by the feedback rating. Me personally, I wouldn't buy a used disc system. It's one of the few things I wouldn't buy used for my rig.

As far as the budget you have set for brakes, there are a few ways of going about your decision on price. You could go for the money saving route and pick up a set of Avid BB7 mechanical brakes for right around 80 bucks. You could go slightly above the 120 mark to the 150ish mark and get a set of Magura hydro brakes, or you could stay in your budget and get a middle ground set of hydro Avid Elixir's. Shimano is also not out of the question, but that might be an area where you would need to buy used to stay within budget.

As you can see so far, there are just SO many different brands out there that are solid choices, and we have only started talking about brakes! In all honesty, what you really need to do is determine how much stopping power you need, How much do you weigh, how hard do you ride, what kind of trails will you be on. Those questions will help a TON with picking the right parts for your rig.

Originally posted by Muse25 Originally posted by Muse25 Awesome!!!! Thanks for the info! That really put things into prospective. What would be a good weight for an all mtn wheelset? Also, I plan to spend maybe $100-$120 on a disk broke system. I was looking on eBay and I'm not sure about used disk brakes. I just got a bare bones frame, no fork, just a headset :) I weight 125 and I plan on riding just the local trails and trails like the flume in tahoe. No drops or crazy rock gardens, yet but would like to tackle some root trails too.

Right on. Well, when it comes to wheels and brakes you are luck being that light! Wish I could say the same, being 200 and riding aggressive I am constantly truing my sub par wheels 

What do you want to pay for a complete bike? Do you have any experience with working on bikes, do you have a friend that is, or you planning on having a LBS do the work putting it all together?

I'm going to work in a few minutes, so I'll look through our venders to see what I can come up with for a gruppo for that thing.

if anyone lives in near NYC def take a bike ride around the sites. just dont ride on the sidewalks.

Originally posted by diviesti Upcoming weeks will be interesting is professional cycling. Kicking it off with the Armstrong interview, followed by the UCI/USADA/WADA decision regarding the reconciliation commission. Personally I hope they allow the athletes to come forward without punishment, label the era as a doping and move on. The UCI is lying to themselves if they really think a small portion of the peloton was doping, and just admit teams had better ways of hiding EPO's then they had tests to detect them. Take a small smack in the face from WADA and USADA and not punish the riders for coming forward.

There's a podcast where Hamilton explains the whole operation.  It was very interesting on how they got away with it all.

What should I spend my money on?  New bike or a years supply of EPO?  I think I will get more results out of the second option. 

Have $250 burning a hole in my pocket, can't decide what to spend it on for my Allez. I told myself last year I would stop spending more money on my bike until I buy a Tarmac frame, but this addiction can't be broke.

Yeah, the chick with the jar makes it 

diviesti, what year/model Allez do you have? And it is an addiction .  But if you had to hold out buying stuff for the bike, waiting till you get a tarmac is a pretty damn good idea. While on the subject of tarmacs, one of the OSU team members brought his bike in today to get some new wrap and a tune up. Such a sick bike...full RED group...




So, went into the shop today and had a little gift waiting for me...



A brand spankin new set of Avid XO Trail's (rotors are under the box). Can't wait to try these beasts out. Mounted them to my hopper, but need to cut the hoses down a bit before I take it out on the trail. So freaking glad to have these things. Quite a bit of a jump from my Elixir 1's to these.

What blew me away is how small the calipers really are, especially since they are 4 piston calipers . Not that it matters a ton, but shaved another 75-80 grams off the rig. So sexy lookin too. Gotta love carbon pull levers.

Originally posted by diviesti It's a 2010 Elite, thats my favorite paint scheme on the SL3. That with the blue Roval Rapid wheelset is tits.

While I agree on the paint scheme, I am a bigger fan of it with the Mavic Ksyrium Elites on. Roval is nice an all, but I am hands down a Mavic fan boy.

I really would love to get a carbon road bike in my quiver, and to be honest it probably would be a Roubaix rather than a Tarmac. More interested in comfort and long rides than cornering. I have MY Allez for that if I want it.

Well...yeah. Zipps are the cats meow. A co-worker is borrowing a set of 202's from a customer for the past few months. Looks so sick on his SL4. Couldn't believe the dude just let him borrow them like that too!

That same co-worker has a set of Mavic R-Sys SLR's that he might sell me for my Allez. Not sure on it yet though....they are a sick wheel, but his have had the hurt put down on them. They are both true, but the rear has a TINY hop to it....just not sure. He said he would sell me the set for 4-5 hundo. Not bad

Originally posted by batmanwest My ride to work today. Quite a fun little ride. Decided to take the long way and get a few extra miles in. It's such a great, yet sketchy feeling when you are slowly passing cars because they think the roads are too bad to do the speed limit.

Holy shit, fairly certain that both of my pinky toes are frost bitten. Just got done with a 22 mile ride with some friends. I feel amazing right now, slightly euphoric. Most of the roads we went on were just wet, and clear of snow, but there were a few back roads that were still snow covered. It was fine until you get to a packed down section. I took a nice little spill we were going down a hill that had a slight curve to it, my wheel got caught in a groove and just washed out. Ended up sliding on my side for several feet, stand up while still sliding and ran-jumped back on the bike. I felt so smooth hahah.

Quick pick of the steed in all her brown snow, salty glory. God damn I have a lot of cleaning to do in the next day or so.

Love your GIF's Mr. Homie.

So, I just got done with my first tubular tire change at work today. Been working on them since Monday. That shit is just stupid. I understand why people like tubies, but they are such a pain in the ass. Way too much work that goes into them. Three farking days to swap out two tires....bah.

Wished our store charged more for them too. After messing with them for all this time, I'll be lucky to clear 15 bucks in commission for it.

Anyways, enough of my bitching, was just curious if anyone out there has ever done their own tubie change.
Really wish that I could of gotten a chance to take them out for a spin though. It was a set of Easton EC90's with Conti Sprinters with the black chilli compound. The most grip I have ever seen in a tire.

I did get a nice little glue buzz though

Originally posted by diviesti Ya unless there is a service vehicle following behind tubies aren't worth it IMO. I've passed quite a few guys walking on the side of road with flat tubies in a few triathlons I've been in. Love the idea of lighter smoother ride, but can't get myself to take the chance.

Originally posted by batmanwest Love your GIF's Mr. Homie.

Thank you sir, I always see fun gifs and I know the people of Trusnow: biking tread will enjoy them!

Originally posted by mommehK Heeyyyyyyy bmw (and anyone else): I'm trying to pick out an indoor trainer stand for my MTB. I just started looking online, and honestly don't know what I'm looking at/for. I want to stay under $100. I've noticed some descriptions say they only go up to a 27 tire (I'm on 29ers). Suggestions????

So...just about sure you can't get a trainer for a 9er. You might be able to find a tire with a very low sidewall, and it could work, but I have never heard of anyone doing it. I'll ask around the shop, but I will go ahead and say the answer is no.

I also wouldn't really recommend any trainer that is under a hundo. You MIGHT be able to ride rollers though, as long as you get some slicks for that hardrock. Rollers are fun, and are a bit of a different ride than a trainer, but you do need to stay alert while on them. And you need to have slicks on both wheels.

You should just pick up a cheap road bike off CL, and get a decent fluid trainer. Although....that route will be 5-8 hundred bucks. But look at it this way. The official rule of thumb of how many bikes you need is N + 1. N being the amount of bikes you currently have. You can never have too many bikes :)

For trainer brands I personally stick with Cycleops, and so does my shop. I have been riding that brand for over a decade and have never had an issue. One solid product, and the new line of fluid trainers are SO quiet.

Originally posted by mommehK Weeeeeell that's not the answer I was aiming for. LOL The N+1 will come sometime this year...the S/O wants a Rockhopper. Go figure. He'll get a bike before I get another one so I have a riding partner!

Sorry to burst your bubble girl! Hahah. It's just when the companies build their trainers, they tend to really only think about the road crew. Just the name of the game.

If the s.o. is looking for a hopper, he could buy mine....hint hint

Originally posted by j_lucky84 This thread only makes me sad anymore :(. I miss my old apple green bike :( I'ma have to check around craigslist and try to find me a cheap 2-wheeler. Good riding season is just around the corner, it'll be nice to be prepared!

That sucks dude. It got stolen, right?

What is your definition of cheap for a bike?

So I think I have made the decision to apply for my stores financing card to buy my next bike .  After weighing my options, I just don't think I can come up with the cash in the next 2 months. If I dumped the wife and I's "Alaska Fund" I could get the new mtn. bike I want, but I might be divorced at the same time.
With the card, I would also be able to get a new gruppo for a frame I painted, and that would mean I could stop using my Allez for a daily. The paint on that thing has gotten so jacked from riding year round. I also just realized that the fenders I use tend to scratch the paint when I ride them in the snow (I farking hate salted roads).

I just hope my credit is good enough to be accepted for financing, hahah. 

I will second the fluid trainer, avoid magnetic trainers at all costs. The few that I've ridden were terrible, loud, noisey, and inconsistent resistance. I have a cheap nashbar fluid trainer paid around $150 for it and couldn't be happier.

Another gif for everyone's enjoyment

1998 Cannondale F1000 (in mango) with alot of upgrades. Not only made in the USA, made in Bedford, Pennsylvania! This thing weighs next to nothing. I can't wait for warm weather so I can start riding again.

The tires on my bike are slicks, not ready for mountain biking. I mainly go on gravel trails and bike on the road around my house. You will definitely want a road bike for races.

Did a long ride on the trainer last night with single legs mixed in. I felt great this morning when I woke up, love the feeling of getting in shape.