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Sashap View Drop Down
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  Quote Sashap Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Board Maintenance
    Posted: Dec/04/2012 at 11:52am
I have been boarding occasionally for about 3 years and inherited an old burton board from my older sister I was pretty young and didn't know about proper maintenance and care. The hills I ride on are fairly icy and I do have a lot of gouges and dings (no core shots thank god) and my edges are all are all chipped and tor up. Being left over the summer it got some rust and an overall coat of dust. I was going to go tot he shop but don't have time at the moment and want to know how I can get it fixed or how much it will cost? The edges all around the board have chips .
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  Quote jhoang6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/04/2012 at 12:04pm
cost about $40 for my to do a board tune up
which inclues waxing and sharpening the edges.

If you have a gummy stone you can probably just run it across the edge to get rid of the rust.

Just remember to dry your gear everytime you're done.
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  Quote Skio25 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/04/2012 at 12:10pm
Originally posted by jhoang6

cost about $40 for my to do a board tune up
which inclues waxing and sharpening the edges.

If you have a gummy stone you can probably just run it across the edge to get rid of the rust.

Just remember to dry your gear everytime you're done.

Just so you know, that's absurd.

Granted it does take a bit of time to wax a board unless the shop has an automated machine, but that's a rip off.

You could spend as much if not less on a kit to tune it yourself - unless you have the money to drop on a tune up then more power to you.
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  Quote Sashap Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/04/2012 at 12:15pm
Thanks allot I'll go to my local shop and see how much it is if it cost 40$ bucks or more I'll probably buy a kit :)
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  Quote Cerilious Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/04/2012 at 12:26pm
http://www.trusnow.com/Dakine-Deluxe-Tune-Kit-Snowboard-tools-tuning.asp

if it's around 40 you might as well get this kit.
everything you need except the iron, and you can pick one up at goodwill for less than $5.
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  Quote batmanwest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/04/2012 at 12:31pm
Originally posted by Sashap

Thanks allot I'll go to my local shop and see how much it is if it cost 40$ bucks or more I'll probably buy a kit :)


If it costs more than 20 bucks at a shop...you should get a tune kit.
Hell, just get a tune kit. It's nice to know how to work on your own gear. Relaxing, and if you get good enough and have free time, you can do all your friends and families gear for a few dollars-money maker! LOL

Really though, look at this thread -> http://www.trusnow.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=51380 and decide if it's something you want to learn how to do. I assure you it's a fairly easy thing to learn, and rewarding.
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  Quote vicente Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/06/2012 at 6:20pm
40$ is a very fair price for base repair and edge and iron wax, the only sets of guides I'd trust with a board/worth buying start at around 30$ a pop and you need one for base and one for side+ a good file which is going to be an easy 10$ minimum. 
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  Quote haiv143 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/07/2012 at 5:40am
Wow... Wax and Edging cost $15 here. Base repairs depends on the damage size. But I do all my tuning and repairs myself. Cost me $15 + $12 (for the wax iron I picked up on sale) for the last 2 years LOL. I take care of my board so it doesn't need much repairing. Just regular tune up.
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  Quote Backside10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/07/2012 at 6:46am
If you can get base repair, edge tuning, and a good hot wax for 40, do it...... Unless you are planning on getting more serious about riding in which case investing in the proper tools is always a good idea. By the time you buy and edge tool, gummy stone, wax iron, wax, p-tex.....you're looking well over 50-60 bucks.

FYI if you just need a wax and edge tune, $15 is a good price point to shoot for, but it sounds like your board is pretty wrecked, so $40 may not be so bad.
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  Quote Ejekted Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/07/2012 at 6:55am
I always recommend tuning your board yourself. No one will care about your gear as much as you do. If you don't have time then you can drop it off at a shop but only if it's under 20$ if it's more than that you are getting ripped off. We have a shop out here that does quick hot wax for 5$ so if I'm desperate I'll just get that done and give it a full tune later. Kits are cheap to wax/tune your own board and after the second time you do it, the kit pays for itself.  There are a ton of videos and forums for tips if you don't know how to do your own board.
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  Quote Piranha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/07/2012 at 7:15am
having an old dinged up board is the best time to start waxing/tuning yourself.  You're gonna make mistakes the first several times (hell, I'm still making them after several years), so if you wait till you get a brand new board, you'll undoubtedly screw it up

the tools can be minimal: whetstone, edge tool, wax, iron, scraper.  (Later, you can add a coarse brush and you'll have everything I use.)

I only had my board tuned professionally one time. I can't imagine paying someone $15 every time I need a tune...which is about every 3 or 4 days of riding.  My home tune jobs aren't perfect, but they definitely work

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  Quote JDiggidy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/07/2012 at 7:33am

A few years back I decided to have a base grind done to my Burton Love.  I thought it would give the board another year or three of good use.  Big Mistake!  the danged thing dries out now after one day on the hill.  Sure, it did take out some of the smaller scratches and stuff... but over all, it wasn't a good choice.

I guess that's a long way of saying, working on your own board gives you real ownership of it.  sure it may be easier (who knows... cheaper?) to give it to someone else, but then it's not really your sweat equity in the way it rides anymore.
 
Now, if I could give mine to other people to scrape, I'd be all good. ;)
2010-11 Gnu Danny Kass C2BTX, 2011-12 Union Atlas, 2012-13 Salomon Synapse & a 12-13 Thrive Renegade for kicks
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  Quote letourneau41 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/07/2012 at 7:36am
Here is a good tuning kit to get started and it's on sale through REI right now with free shipping.  You'll save loads of money tuning your stuff yourself.   You'll still need an iron though.  

"Sign up for the Daily give away at Thrive. http://www.thrivesnowboards.com/rp/66964"
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  Quote Piranha Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/07/2012 at 7:45am
I'm an advocate of the kits, but the dakine are inferior and more expensive than the tools4boards brand.   I also recommend getting the one with an iron included...it's a very good iron, specific to waxing, and you don't have to drive all over town searching for a "cheap" iron (with gas and time, will end up costing you about the same as a full kit)
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  Quote Angry Midget Yo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/07/2012 at 8:36am
Originally posted by Piranha

I'm an advocate of the kits, but the dakine are inferior and more expensive than the tools4boards brand.   I also recommend getting the one with an iron included...it's a very good iron, specific to waxing, and you don't have to drive all over town searching for a "cheap" iron (with gas and time, will end up costing you about the same as a full kit)

A foldable iron???  That's so cool!  I have the Dakine kit and it works fine.
Sessions sucks hairy monkey balls, the end.
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  Quote Muse25 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/29/2012 at 4:33pm
I have a full kit, but sometimes I get real lazy or don't have time. Small stuff I can do to keep costs low. I wax my own board (if I have the time, last min. friction wax at the resort is sometimes better so I can catch some zzz's rather than wax my board)and sharpen and tune my own edges. But I'm gonna spring for a full tune on my gnu-b pro. (decided to keep it) and get a base stone grind due to the rock I ran over Confused.
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  Quote snowj720 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/29/2012 at 6:17pm
Originally posted by batmanwest

Originally posted by Sashap

Thanks allot I'll go to my local shop and see how much it is if it cost 40$ bucks or more I'll probably buy a kit :)


If it costs more than 20 bucks at a shop...you should get a tune kit.
Hell, just get a tune kit. It's nice to know how to work on your own gear. Relaxing, and if you get good enough and have free time, you can do all your friends and families gear for a few dollars-money maker! LOL

Really though, look at this thread -> http://www.trusnow.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=51380 and decide if it's something you want to learn how to do. I assure you it's a fairly easy thing to learn, and rewarding.
I'll second that it's nice to work on your gear.  I feel closer to my board tuning it myself.  I end up doing a my friends boards just to be nice, but this season my peeps are starting to do there own stuff since they need to know how to do it and shouldn't rely on me to take care of them all the time.
 
To get a truely full tuning kit will cost you more than 20.  I've dropped a few hundred over the last ? years.  But that's including stones, files, scrapers, iron, blocks of hot wax, multiple cans of paste wax, base cleaners, etc.  It's been worth it though to have my boards right.  When I grew up I skied and used rentals so I knew nothing about maintence.  When I got a board it took about two seasons to figure out you need to tune.  It's night and day when you tune a board.  Takes some learning, but you'll be glad you did.
 
Check out tognar toolworks.  I think it's tognar.com, google it and you'll find it.  They have everything you need and they have tons of info on tuning.  I can never say enough good about them.
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  Quote mbesp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/29/2012 at 6:18pm
I was able to remove some edge rust with one of those green scotch brite pads   as for irons I picked up a cheap dakine previous year model for like 10 bucks from zoomies.   it isn't the best iron because of how the heat element turns on and as soon as it hits the temp turns back off for a while.   But for the price it gets the job done and I've been using it for 2 or 3 years now.
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  Quote Muse25 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/30/2012 at 8:40am
Originally posted by mbesp

I was able to remove some edge rust with one of those green scotch brite pads   as for irons I picked up a cheap dakine previous year model for like 10 bucks from zoomies.   it isn't the best iron because of how the heat element turns on and as soon as it hits the temp turns back off for a while.   But for the price it gets the job done and I've been using it for 2 or 3 years now.


$10?!?!? Score! I know Rei has some good after season deals on tools, picked up some wax and a scraper for a steal.
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  Quote Angry Midget Yo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/30/2012 at 9:49am
I have a dakine iron too, it gets the job done and I think I got it on sale for 15 bucks.  
Sessions sucks hairy monkey balls, the end.
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  Quote fj5 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/30/2012 at 10:58am
Sharpening and wax/tune-up starts around $25 but range quite a bit depending on where you get it done (resort vs. big store vs. local shop).  If you plan on maintaining this sport for many years, then it makes sense to invest in a kit right away.  That's what I did, I purchased a full Dakine kit with iron and tools retail from a local shop... wasn't cheap like all the other prices I see above but I've already made up for the cost in just a couple seasons.  Same mentality with rentals and buying your own gear.
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  Quote mluu003 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/30/2012 at 2:18pm
I have a question guys...When you sharpen your board's edges, can you get it back to 90 degrees? Is that even possible?

I was looking at edge sharpeners and all of them made the edges 86-88 degrees. I thought you wanted them to be 90 since a few degrees would make a difference on your effective edge.

If this question is in the wrong place...can someone direct me? thanks
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  Quote )(nfinit)( Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/31/2012 at 5:14am
yes it is possible, but not generally recommended.  

check this out

http://www.tognar.com/bevel_edge_tips_file_bevel_ski_snowboard.html


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  Quote fj5 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/31/2012 at 5:49am
Originally posted by )(nfinit)(

yes it is possible, but not generally recommended.  

check this out

http://www.tognar.com/bevel_edge_tips_file_bevel_ski_snowboard.html



Wow, I had no idea beveling was that intense!  I thought boards always came factory standard at 90 degrees.  News to me to find out they're not.  The filing tool I have in my Dakine kit appears to have a 90 degree setting so now I'm wondering if it's not a good tool to use.  Is it generally recommended to free hand when filing?

Come to think of it, it's almost like your own TBT LOL, just not nearly as prominent.
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  Quote )(nfinit)( Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/31/2012 at 6:22am
well your base is flat, your edges are beveled...  so i guess if you consider 10" flat, 0.25" beveled, then yeah tbt just not nearly as prominent. Wink
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  Quote sdwc96 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/31/2012 at 8:18am
keep in mind too the sharper your edges the quicker they'll dull. also you can always take off metal from your edges but never put it back on. adjusting your angles constantly on your board will shorten its life span. 
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  Quote haiv143 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/31/2012 at 3:15pm
Originally posted by sdwc96

keep in mind too the sharper your edges the quicker they'll dull. also you can always take off metal from your edges but never put it back on. adjusting your angles constantly on your board will shorten its life span. 


oh crap. I super sharpened my old board because it was really dull. I didn't even think this much ahead Confused Good news is that I use it as a spare for friends/newbies. Hope it last a couple of years.
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  Quote belleayre Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/31/2012 at 5:23pm
Originally posted by sdwc96

keep in mind too the sharper your edges the quicker they'll dull. also you can always take off metal from your edges but never put it back on. adjusting your angles constantly on your board will shorten its life span. 

Definitely agree with the latter comment about changing angles but not  sure what you're getting at with the first comment. That logic could be used to argue against sharpening anything, but for the best performance, whether it's a chainsaw or a snowboard it should be fairly sharp. For touch-ups, instead of grinding away on your edges with a standard file you can use a finer diamond stone which will remove less metal. 
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  Quote sdwc96 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/31/2012 at 7:51pm
Originally posted by belleayre

Originally posted by sdwc96

keep in mind too the sharper your edges the quicker they'll dull. also you can always take off metal from your edges but never put it back on. adjusting your angles constantly on your board will shorten its life span. 

Definitely agree with the latter comment about changing angles but not  sure what you're getting at with the first comment. That logic could be used to argue against sharpening anything, but for the best performance, whether it's a chainsaw or a snowboard it should be fairly sharp. For touch-ups, instead of grinding away on your edges with a standard file you can use a finer diamond stone which will remove less metal. 

the first part, i was getting at was that if you like sharp edges you're going have to sharpen them often. whereas if you sharpen them once and only sharpen when you need, your board will last a lot longer. 
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  Quote )(nfinit)( Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/01/2013 at 5:49am
Thanks for elaborating. If you want your board to last don't remove a ton of material. If you want sharp edges, your board may only last a year or two. Ultimately it depends on how and where you ride.

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